Category: Uncategorized

Now that my speaker stands can stand on their own, I could continue with my setup.

I started building the rest of my speaker stands:

Next I needed to measure the speaker cables. I got 300′ of 12AWG speaker cable, and 12AWG was definitely over kill for these tiny speakers. However, given the fact that they’ll be about 50ft in length and the potentiality of me upgrading the speakers to better ones later, these cable would be fine.

I later found out that these cable were so thick, it was actually a bit troublesome sticking it into the back of my rear and side speakers.

With the practically infinite amount of speaker cable, I was now able to go around things to keep it hidden from view.

Despite the fact the speaker stands were no longer falling, the fact the center of gravity is closer to the front and the stands were sitting on top of soft carpet, the front legs of the base would dig a bit deeper into the carpet than the back, still causing some tilt. The slightest push will still tip the whole thing over. I was thinking of sticking some flat pieces of wood underneath it to counter the carpet softness. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any flat pieces of wood just lying around. I did find some MSN poker chips I got at the company meeting almost 2 years ago. That gave me an idea.

Here’s my final setup.

I thought I did a pretty good job with hiding the cables.

The wire you see on the left of the single seater is actually the power cable for my exercise bike, so that’s normal. All the cables are along the wall or hiding beneath/underneath my couch.

As for MonoPrice, I updated the product manager with the situation and I’ve requested that he remove the incorrect review that I posted, which he seemed more than happy to obliged. The tech support did get back to me. I told him the problem was resolved, besides some tilting. He said he should be able to help me with it and asked about the what type of floor the speaker stands were on and if I could take some photos of it and let him analyze and determine what could be done to make them more stable.

I got my order of speaker stands, speaker cable, and some miscellaneous cables from MonoPrice last week.

The speaker stands I got were these: Speaker Stand – Silver (SS-01) – Set of 2. I actually got 2 sets of them since I had rear speakers and side speakers to elevate. I was contemplating on mounting on the wall, but that didn’t give me as much freedom and my layout is a bit weird. If you don’t recall, this is what my layout looks like:

Everything was fine until I finished building my first speaker stand. If I hooked up my speaker to it, it wouldn’t stand on its own. It appears my speakers were too heavy. My rear and side speakers aren’t that big. They measure 4″ x 6″ x 10.5″ and weighed 2.6lbs. I actually found a neat way to measure how heavy items are. My digital scale won’t turn on unless something heavier than 10 or 20lbs stands on it. Therefore, to weigh the speakers, I first weigh myself twice (to guarantee accuracy of my own weight), and then I weigh myself holding the object. Simple subtraction afterwards nets me the objects weight.

I was somewhat pissed at this point. I have 2 sets of these useless speaker stands. I even started browsing Best Buy and Circuit City to see what available options I had. They were all over $50, but I was feeling desperate at this point. I shot an email to MonoPrice support and also left a review (no longer available – which I’ll explain later). There’s one interesting thing about MonoPrice’s “Average User Satisfaction Rate“. When you submit a review, you give it a rating, however the rating is between 4 and 10, where 4 corresponds to 2 stars and 10 corresponds to 5 stars. Meaning, the product’s rating are partially inflated. Somewhat deceiving in my opinion and it guarantees that no product’s rating falls below 2 stars.

The reason it wouldn’t stand is the fact the pole is in the center of the base and by stick a 2.6lb speaker to the front of it, the center of gravity is shifted forward, pulling it forward and down, which inevitably causing it to fall. At this point, I was trying to think of all the possible remedies, such as adding more weight to the base, finding a way to fix the stands to the floor, having wires and strings to hold it back from falling, leaning it against the couch, etc. All ghetto solutions and none that I would’ve been satisfied with.

The following day, the product manager sent me an email back claiming his 3lb speakers work find with these speaker stands, but he forwarded my email to tech support and they would try to assist me in figuring out what’s going on. Ungsunghero and I weren’t exactly sure how “tech” support would be able to help me with a mechanical problem. I decided to take some photos of the stands with speakers on it and Ungsunghero suggested I take a video of it falling (into a pillow).

At this point, I noticed there was an indentation on the top of the base, which I haven’t noticed before. The speaker stand came with 2 sets of screws, nuts, and bolts for the 2 variations of speaker back panel connections. There was this big twist ring (apparently called the twist lock), which I didn’t really know where it went. It fit the bottom of the pole, so I thought it was meant to lock the weight in from sliding out. However, the indentation made me realize that the twist ring was suppose to sandwich the base panel between it and the weight.

After I corrected this, my speaker stands no longer fell. However, they were still tilting forward. I attributed this to user error and bad instructions. The instructions were rather vague and incomplete, as there was no mention of what to do with the twist ring at all.

To be continued…

Since my fall back in January or February, I’ve basically completely stopped doing push ups. Then again, back then I was doing push ups, sit ups, and DDR as my daily workout. After my fall, I would try to do a push up every other day and wasn’t able to last even one, which was what actually prompted me to go see the doctor and hand specialist which told me I damaged my tendon. Anyway, I’m not sure what fixed it, either the exercises I was told told to do, the splint which kept my thumb from moving, or the special Chinese ointment my mom help rub on my hand for a few days, the pain eventually disappear.

Anyway, during our rafting trip last week, I noticed how much weaker my upper body was. It could be the fact that everyone’s upper body gets really sore from rafting, but I felt it was weaker than normal. I mean that could be case given the fact my exercise bike doesn’t really exercise my upper body, so I decided to put push ups back into my daily workout. Boy was I weak. After only 40 push ups, my arms were literally shaking. I remember doing that with ease just 6 months ago. I felt the pain in my triceps pretty much immediately, which is a good sign I guess that I’m actually working them out. My triceps remained sore throughout the next day too (shows you how weak I’ve gotten) and I almost wasn’t able to do push ups the following day.

What this is going to lead into is how to properly do push ups. You’ve seen people bend their knees and back and I’ve even seen someone that looked like they were humping the floor. We would always laugh during P.E. But what I’m referring to is the arm distance and the legs and so on. I mean some people put their arms really far apart, while others put their hands together and form a triangle with their thumbs and pointer finger. Then there’s the proper leg formation. Are the suppose to be together or separate and how far apart?

I’ve always done the hands at elbow length apart and the feet together and lowering myself till I hit a right angle with my elbows, but I think I might actually be doing it incorrectly and might end up hurting myself. And push ups definitely put a lot of stress and pressure on my wrist and I don’t want to end up damaging it again.

A search revealed a couple sites telling you how to do a proper push up:

• Wikipedia – Press up
• essortment – How to do a proper push up
• wikiHow – How to Do a Push Up
• eHow – How to Do a Proper Push-Up
• Different kinds of Push Up
• 19 Push Ups Variations Without Any Equipment

The last 2 links were interesting as it revealed to me that the push up variation I was doing is called the wide push ups where your hands are 4 feet apart, however the consensus for most is that your hands are shoulder width or a little more apart and feet together. Lower your body until your chest touches the floor. I always wonder how people can make their chest touch the floor, but it makes sense since my arms are farther apart, it becomes difficult to make an acute angle with my elbows to lower my body even further. If my hands were say closer together, an acute angle is very possible. With the many different variations of push ups displayed in the last 2 links, I’m not actually quite sure which ones are safe to do. There were quite a few I think can easily hurt yourself with.

Anyway, another variation of push ups I do, but I can only do about 5 before I have to give up, is the knuckle push up. A knuckle push up is where you form fists with your hands and push yourself up with fists instead of your hands being flat. It actually requires a lot more strength than a regular flat palm push up and is quite a workout. I used to end my push up workouts with 1 knuckle push up.

One thing that I see very common is that some people do push ups with the legs spread apart. There’s many pictures showing this, but the instructions do say to keep the feet together or parallel. I then found this link: Air Force Technical School Physical Fitness Requirements which says legs should be together or upto 12″ apart. I’m guessing if your feet are apart, it gives better balance and makes it a bit easier. One of the videos above had the guy do a 1 hand push up, and that was the only push up that he had his legs spread apart in.

So I recently purchased a tower fan from Costco. It does get hot here in the peak of summer and thought I’d prepare myself this time. Plus the fact that it was on sale at Costco prompted me to pick one up. The one I got is the Seville UltraSlimline Fan Combo Pack. It was only $49.99 in-store and also comes with a tiny fan which I had yet decided where to put.

Anyway, it dawn upon me today that I never really figured out how tower fans worked. With the regular circular fans with the 3 rotating blades, those are usually the fans I’ve been accustomed to. My initial guess was that maybe there’s a small rotating blade on the bottom (or top) pushing air upwards (or downwards) and the innards of the fan just angles it so it blows out equally in the front. So I shined a flashlight into this tower fan and noticed a cylindrical object with many many slits in it spinning. It works similarly like a cyclone CPU fan where the spinning cylindrical object as able to move air in the mass. It’s actually quite genius because not only do you move a lot of air, it’s also very quiet. I wonder if we’ll start seeing these for computers.

And if you look to the right of my tower fan (no, not the shredder), you’ll see my air purifier. I purchased this at Costco over a year ago, probably more like like 1.5 years since I got it awhile before moving into my new home (which is almost a year now). The one I got is the Honeywell SilentComfort™ True HEPA Air Purifier with Germ Reducing Permanent Filter, model 18155 (a bit cheaper on Amazon.com). I have this guy pretty much on 24/7, and I can only assume it’s doing its job.

For the longest time, there’s these 2 lights that are on all the time: HEPA Filter and Prefilter. They both have a button next to them. I always just thought it meant if those lights were on, the filters were working. However, I noticed pushing those buttons don’t exactly turn it off, so that got me curious to exactly what those buttons did and what those lights did. I couldn’t find the manual in the box, so I ended up searching online and found the manual.

It turns out, if those lights are on, it means to go check the filters. I can’t remember the last time those lights weren’t on. I’ve checked the top filter every once in awhile, and it always appears to be clean (not a good sign I guess), but I totally forgot there was also a filter on the bottom. When I opened the bottom today, there was literally a centimeter of dust on what they call the prefilter. Ungsunghero says prefilter is just Honeywell’s fancy way of calling their carbon filters, which apparently is the case:

Honeywell® Universal Pre-filter – The Honeywell Universal Carbon Pre-filter helps capture large airborne particles before passing through the HEPA filter, therefore maximizing the HEPA filter life. The activated carbon per-filter also helps reduce common household odors.

After you check the filters and they’re okay, you’re suppose to hold down the associated button for 10 seconds and it’ll turn the light off and probably come back on 3 months later.

Anyway, the manual recommends changing the prefilters ever 1-3 months, and it’s been about 18 already. No wonder a thick layer of dust is there. Since I didn’t have any replacement prefilters at the moment, I took a vacuum and sucked out most of the dust and will be using that in the meantime until I find some replacement prefilters. I started searching online and found the cheapest to be at Amazon.com: Honeywell 38002 Enviracare Universal Replacement Pre-Filter for $10.73. Unfortunately my Prime membership had expired earlier this month and I didn’t renew it. So I’m contemplating, should I buy 3 prefilters, find some other filler, or pay $79 for another year of Prime membership. I decided to go the Prime membership route after finding an accomplice to join in the fun.

It also turns out my HEPA filter (the big giant roll) is a permanent filter and doesn’t need to be replaced. It does recommend that I vacuum it once in awhile to remove dust and dirt.

With that done, I was looking around at other fans and stuff and noticed some fans came with HEPA filters while others came with an ionizer. They were marketing the ionizer feature as an air purifier and that got me thinking how exactly ionizers work. According to Wikipedia: Ionic air purifiers use an electrically charged plate to produce negative gas ions that particulate matter sticks to (in an effect similar to static electricity). Many ionisers are sold as air purifiers, but in this regard they are very inefficient. They will clean the air to a small degree, by charging dust and smoke particles which will then be attracted to a neutral or positively charged surface. Heavier combined particles may precipitate (fall) out of the air should two smaller particles of different charge clump together.

And that ends my fun filled weekend. Sigh… I’ve spent so much money this weekend. With the Onkyo home theater system ($350 + tax), TV stand ($190 + tax), Maxtor 160GB SATA hard drive ($75 + tax – $50 rebate), Prime membership ($79, most likely /2), and Honeywell prefilters ($11), I’m looking at about an $800 initial bleed. Fortunately, many of these are one time purchases.

Just got my case for my new digital camera today. It’s a Canon PSC-1000 (grey) made specially for the Canon PowerShot SD1000 Digital ELPH. After searching online for a good deal since this is a “urgent” and “needed” purchase, Derek and I decided to get it off eBay. It was $42 shipped for 2 making it $21 each.

Amazon.com did have it, but it was going to be $26.xx + tax, making it almost $29 shipped. I did find it cheaper in a couple places, but they were either “shady” or not in stock.

The case comes in 2 colors: grey and burgandy. One of our requirements was that it was grey. I’m not much of a red/burgandy guy. Another requirement was that we needed it ASAP as I carry my camera with me everyday (in my backpack), so I didn’t want to get it beat up or scratched.

After searching high and low, the 2 cheapest reputable stores I found it at was:
JR.com – $17 shipped (using $10 Google Checkout sign-up bonus)
Adorama – $19.50 shipped (when ordering 2)

However, Adorama gave me an estimate of 4-6 weeks before it would be in stock and I didn’t even bother with JR.com

Here are some pictures of it:

Here’s a couple pictures of it with the camera inside the case (taken with my Samsung SGH-t519 camera phone):

It was shipped from Rancho Santa Margarita and took only 3 days to get here via USPS First Class (Monday to Thursday). If I had ordered from Amazon.com, it would still have taken 2 days (Monday to Wednesday), so I’m happy with the overall shipping time. If you’re interested, check out Hobby Monster. Then again, California to Washington isn’t that far.

I just got myself a new toy! Yay for me! My wallets been crying a lot lately though. We haven’t got along that well. He says I’ve been spending way too much and I blame Derek.

Anyway, I’ve been due another digital camera for awhile. I’ve had the Canon PowerShot S400 since sophomore year of college and it has all in all done extremely well. It wasn’t until a year ago when it started having problems and began corrupting my compact flash memory cards. I actually lost a Kingston 1GB CF memory card to it and have been using my spare Viking 1GB memory card ever since. I can’t even view or format the Kingston card on a USB memory card reader. And once in awhile, my camera would say: memory card error. I did however figure out what to do in that situation. All I have to do is turn my camera off and pound on it a few times, and then turn it back on. *Poof* memory card error gone!

So when Derek showed me the deal last week where the Canon PowerShot SD1000 was on sale for $150, I had to jump.

The feature set is rather good:

• Slim, stylish 7.1 Megapixel Digital ELPH with 3x Optical Zoom lens
• Chic modern minimalism in the ELPH’s classic Box & Circle design in two color variations to suit your personal style
• DIGIC III Image Processor with improved Face Detection Technology and Red-eye Correction for sharper images and improved functionality
• Vivid, high-resolution 2.5-inch PureColor LCD with scratch-resistant anti-reflection coating for easy on-camera viewing
• ISO 1600 and High ISO Auto to reduce image blur and expand low-light shooting capability
• Five movie modes including 30 fps VGA, Time Lapse and Fast Frame Rate
• Print/Share Button for easy direct printing and downloading, plus ID Photo Print and Movie Print with select PIXMA Photo Printers, CP and SELPHY Compact Photo Printers

They’ve also messed up the naming of the cameras. You’d think that SD1000 is better than the SD900 which should be better than the SD800, but the fact of the matter is, the PowerShot SD1000 is the same as the PowerShot SD800IS in every aspect besides the fact that the SD800 has IS (image stabilization). On the other hand, the PowerShot SD900 is a 10.0MP camera compared to 7.1MP which the SD1000 and SD800 have.

So I got my digital camera today and haven’t had much time to play with it yet, but it’s so sexy and thin:

Their packaging wasn’t as cool as my 3rd gen iPod, but still rather neat. Unfortunately it didn’t come with a case, so it looks like I’ll have to splurge some more on something like this: Canon PSC-1000 Deluxe Grey Leather Case for the Canon SD1000 Digital Camera

Using my new Samsung SGH-t519, I took some pictures comparing my old camera (Canon PowerShot S400) with my new camera (Canon PowerShot SD1000). The camera phone’s photo quality wasn’t that good, plus it wasn’t taking in good light condition, so please ignore the fuzziness due to my shaking hands.

The PowerShot SD1000 only came with a 32MB SD memory card, which I’ll probably never use. I took out the SD card from my phone and will be using it in my digital camera until I find a good deal for a replacement SD card.

I also found my old PowerShot S400 retail box. It even still has an unopened 32MB CF memory card in it. Haha.

This list was sent to me by Vivori and it was hilarious and I can so relate to many of them, I wanted to share it.

HOW TO POOP AT WORK

As much as we try to convince ourselves otherwise, the WORK POOP is inevitable. For those who hate pooping at work, following is the survival guide for taking a dump at the office.

CROP DUSTING: When farting, you walk really fast around the office so the smell is not in your area and everyone else gets a whiff but doesn’t know where it came from. Be careful when you do this. Do not stop until the full fart has been expelled. Walk an extra 30 feet to make sure the smell has left your pants.

FLY BY: The act of scouting out a bathroom before pooping. Walk in and check for other poopers. If there are others in the bathroom, leave and come back again. Be careful not to become a FREQUENT FLYER. People may become suspicious if they catch you constantly going into the bathroom.

ESCAPEE: A fart that slips out while taking a leak at the urinal or forcing a poop in a stall. This is usually accompanied by a sudden wave of embarrassment. If you release an escapee, do not acknowledge it. Pretend it did not happen. If you are standing next to the farter in the urinal, pretend you did not hear it. No one likes an escapee. It is uncomfortable for all involved. Making a joke or laughing makes both parties feel uneasy.

JAILBREAK: When forcing a poop, several farts slip out at a machine gun pace. This is usually a side effect of diarrhea or a hangover. If this should happen, do not panic. Remain in the stall until everyone has left the bathroom to spare everyone the awkwardness of what just occurred.

COURTESY FLUSH: The act of flushing the toilet the instant the poop hits the water. This reduces the amount of air time the poop has to stink up the bathroom. This can help you avoid being caught doing the WALK OF SHAME .

WALK OF SHAME: Walking from the stall, to the sink, to the door after you have just stunk up the bathroom. This can be a very uncomfortable moment if someone walks in and busts you. As with farts, it is best to pretend that the smell does not exist. This can be minimized with the use of the COURTESY FLUSH.

OUT OF THE CLOSET POOPER: A colleague who poops at work and is damn proud of it. You will often see an Out Of The Closet Pooper enter the bathroom with a newspaper or magazine under their arm. Always look around the office for the Out Of The Closet Pooper before entering the bathroom.

SAFE HAVENS: A seldom used bathroom somewhere in the building where you can least expect visitors. Try floors that are predominantly of the opposite sex. This will reduce the odds of a same-sex pooper entering your bathroom.

TURD BURGLAR: Someone who does not realize that you are in the stall and tries to force the door open. This is one of the most shocking and vulnerable moments that can occur when taking a poop at work. If this occurs, remain in the stall until the Turd Burglar leaves. This way you will avoid all uncomfortable eye contact.

CAMO-COUGH: A phony cough that alerts all new entrants into the bathroom that you are in a stall. This can be used to cover-up a WATERMELON, or to alert potential Turd Burglars. Very effective when used in conjunction with an ASTAIRE.

ASTAIRE: A subtle toe-tap that is used to alert potential Turd Burglars that you are occupying a stall. This will remove all doubt that the stall is occupied. If you hear an Astaire, leave the bathroom immediately so the pooper can poop in peace.

WATERMELON: A poop that creates a loud splash when hitting the toilet water. This is also an embarrassing incident. If you feel a Watermelon coming on, create a diversion. See CAMO-COUGH.

HAVANA OMELET: A case of diarrhea that creates a series of loud splashes in the toilet water. Often accompanied by an Escapee. Try using a Camo-Cough with an Astaire.

UNCLE TED: A bathroom user who seems to linger around forever. Could spend extended lengths of time in front of the mirror or sitting on the pot. An Uncle Ted makes it difficult to relax while on the crapper, as you should always wait to poop when the bathroom is empty. This benefits you as well as the other bathroom attendees.

RayAlome sent me this video: Cadbury Eggs…smaller? B.J. Novak (guy who plays Ryan Howard from The Office) goes on Conan O’Brien as a guest and talks about how he buys a whole bunch of Cadbury eggs (those chocolate creme filled candy eggs) after Easter and that’ll last him a whole year.

Anyway, he notices that the eggs feel smaller, so he goes around and asks his friends if the eggs have gotten smaller and they all replied, “no, you’ve gotten bigger.” So he goes online to the Cadbury homepage and finds this in their FAQ, which says:

Why has the size of the egg changed?

It hasn’t – you’ve just grown up!

He thought it was a bit strange that they would come out and post something like that, if it was not for the fact many people had contacted them about it.

He searches around his house and finally find an Cadbury egg he purchased a few years ago. It’s is blatantly obvious that the newer egg is smaller. This isn’t one of those mini-Cadbury eggs, but a full size one. Conan shows the difference here:

Despite the fact that the site says the eggs only look smaller because you’ve gotten bigger, that fact sheet has been around since 2003 or earlier. From Internet Archive Wayback Machine, the earliest cache of this page is on October 28, 2003, and even then it has the same FAQ, so I don’t think this question was posted up to address the size change this year, but most people aren’t going to see it that way.

So during the past week or the week before that, Costco had the Roomba Scheduler on sale for $210 (instant discount). I couldn’t resist and purchased a 2nd one. You know how lazy someone is when they won’t bother moving the Roomba between floors. Now I have a Roomba on my first floor and a Roomba on my second floor, scheduled to clean my condo twice a week. Haha.

At first I thought it may have problems returning home since there’s now 2 active base, but when I got home that day, both were able to find their way back to their own base without any problems. If returning home does become a problem later on, I think scheduling them to run on different days or different times would work.

---

Anyway, I had contacted Roomba customer support as the plastic piece on my dirt/trash bin was falling apart after only 8 months of usage. Plus I’m not a heavy user, just 2x a week, unlike people I’ve talked to who run it everyday. So I decided to contact Roomba customer support and see what I could do about it. It should still be under warranty, and if not, I can always return it to Costco for a new one.

Here’s our email exchange (each response was received within 24hrs):

My Roomba’s dirt/trash bin has this piece of plastic is ripping off. I’ve purchased this at Costco about 6 months ago and the unit’s been working great. I schedule it to run twice a week and it does a decent job besides the times it gets stuck inside my power cords and underneath my desk.

Anyway, I’ve attached pictures of what is ripping from the dirt/trash bin and was wondering how to get that replace. I believe my item is still under warranty.

Thank you.

Sincerely,
Toland H.

Dear Toland,

Thank you for writing. We apologize for the inconvenience. We would be happy to send you a new dust bin and filter frame free of charge. We need you to please respond with the following information so that we can process the order:

– Your Roomba’s serial number. The serial number is on a white sticker in the battery well which is visible when the battery is removed. To remove the battery press inward on the release tabs at each end of the battery simultaneously and then lift the battery straight out.
– The original date and location that the Roomba was purchased

Where can I find the product code for my robot?

Thank you,
Heather A
iRobot Customer Support

Hi,

Here’s the information you requested:
Serial #: XXXXXXXXXX
Date of Purchase: 7/25/2006 at Costco (Issaquah, WA – store #110)

I can scan my receipt and take a photo of the serial number if needed.

Thanks!

Sincerely,
Toland H.

Dear Toland,

Thank you for contacting iRobot Customer Support.

We apologize for the inconvenience. Unfortunately, the dust bin is currently on a backorder. As soon as we receive them into the warehouse, your order will be shipped to you. At that time you will receive an email confirmation with the UPS tracking number.

We have sent a filter frame to you. You can expect it to arrive within 7-10 business days via USPS first class mail.

Check out our improved iRobot Customer Support Site…

For online access to your support issues, please click on our registration link: >>My Support Profile,
which can be found in the upper right section on www.irobot.com/support.

To submit an inquiry click on the Email Us icon on the right panel of this support page.

Regards,

Amanda
iRobot Customer Support

Pretty cool…

I had a very close call this morning.

For people who don’t know me, I’m a frequent +5-10er, meaning I usually drive 5-10 miles faster than the “suggested” speed limit. Today, as I was exiting my complex, there was a car coming down the hill. I believed if I hit my accelerator immediately, I would’ve been able to beat him, but I contemplated too long and had to wait for him to pass before making the left turn ending up behind him. You might not think much about 1 car, but given that I drive on a 1 lane street about 80% of my drive to work, getting stuck behind a slow car is no fun.

Anyway, on the next intersection, we both made a right turn. The speed limit on this road was 30MPH. We were both going about 40MPH as the distance between us didn’t grow or decrease. However, at the top of the hill, I noticed he turned on his right blinker and was about to turn into the park. There was a guy there waving at him, so I thought maybe he was helping a friend with car problems.

Then I noticed the device he had in his hand and the police motorbike on the side of the road. That was a radar gun…

I was like in shock. If I had tried to beat him when exiting my complex, it would’ve been me caught by that radar gun. Throughout my drive to work, the only thing in my mind was, “Should I purchase a radar detector?” I’ve actually contemplated on a radar detector for some time, but never really decided I needed one. This is actually my 1st close encounter to getting a speeding ticket. Haha, I was also contemplating on which lawyer I would hire to fight my ticket, as Jeannie Mucklestone (a very popular choice in MS newsgroups) popped into my head.

I could only say I was lucky this time around.